January 1, 2023 Today we visited Joshua Tree NP, a nearly 800,000 acres preserve with a variety of ecosystems. We are attracted to the jumble of stacked boulders and wander along the Split Rock trail. These boulders are termed monzogranite, made from granite uplifts through the Pinto gneiss formation. Chemical weathering causing a constantly changing landscape. See if you can find the Ghost Buster logo, a facial profile, a tulip and two Indian women sitting side by side. A great place for kids to scamble and technical climbers to scale the faces of these impressive boulders.
The Joshua Tree is not a tree at all. It is a species of the Yucca plant. Similar to Seguaro cactus, the Joshua Tree can live an average life span of 150 years. These are pictures of Joshua Trees in various states of growth. Apparently, there’s a Joshua Tree in Antelope Canyon that is 1,000 years old (as of 2016).
NOTE: Picture to the left is of a young Yucca plant, not a young Joshua Tree. The length of the palm fronds are longer on the Yucca than on the Joshua Tree.
January 3, 2023 Joshua Tree National Park
Day two, and we decided to explore the southern portion of the park, near the Cholla Cactus Garden as well as a unique Transition Zone where the Colorado Desert and the Mojave Desert merge under the shadow of Pinto Mountain (3983′).
Later in the day….
Sometimes we (I) get a little side tracked and end up seeing or doing more than we originally set out to do. That was the case today, as we originally set out to go for a hike. We’d decided on Lost Horse Mine trail, about 6.5 miles, but we keep forgetting we’re hiking in winter in the desert and when the sun goes down, it gets dark quickly. So, in order to finish this hike before sunset, we had to rush. We hiked up and down the ridge with views of bajadas on one side and giant Joshua Trees on the other. Beautiful!
Jan 5, 2023 Giant Rock near Landers CA
A local marvel in the Mojave Desert. The rock covers 5800 sq ft and is 7 stories high. A young couple (U of W geology graduate) we met learned that a German lived under the rock (see pic 2) in the 1940-50s until authorities thought he was a spy and dynamited him out. The German was acquainted with another Landers’ legend George Van Tassel, an ufologist and contactee who built a structure called the Integratron which he claimed was capable of rejuvenation, anti-gravity and time travel. Reservations are required for the still functioning Integratron.
Jan. 6, 2023 Palm Springs, CA
Drove the LA/Palm Springs highway to see examples of mid-century Desert Modernism architecture popular in the 1950 – 60s. Butterfly roofs, sliding glass doors and big windows, incorporation of natural materials, sloping rooflines were concepts by some of the famous Palm Springs Modernism architects including Krisel, Neutra and Frey. There’s a great Palm Springs Self-Guided Architectural Tour which includes examples of residential, commercial and public buildings.
Jan. 7, 2023 Joshua Tree Retreat Center
The oldest and largest retreat center in Western US and the site of the largest collection of Frank Llyod Wright buildings. A little run down, however I was entranced by the Chalice Well pond. The Well is located at one of 17 vortexes located on the property. Prior to building the fountain and ponds, various crystals, metals and vegetation were buried and planted to enhance the spirituality of the site. All I can say it was very relaxing and I’d love to sit by the babbling waters again. Bungalows are available for rent.
Jan. 8, 2023 Agua Caliente Tahquitz Canyon
Steve and I joined two other couples and a Tribal Ranger on a walk up to the Tahquitz Canyon and Falls. The ranger knew his vegetation and the Agua Caliente Band of the Cahuilla Indians’ uses for the plants. For instance, the pictured red berried Desert Mistletoe’s bark is used for a black dye and the pictured Jimson Weed is used by Shamans to induce hallucinations in adolescent boys to help determine their role in the tribe. Also shown is the Sacred Rock and a mortar stone used for grinding plants and rocks
Jan. 8, 2023 continued…
Back in Palm Springs to see the Walk of the Stars. The sidewalk stars depict notable people who’ve contributed to Palm Springs – politicians, singers, activists, TV and film stars. Two of my favorites were Nelda Lintz, a socialite of the 60s who knew everything about everybody in Palm Springs and was photographed by Slim Aarons in the iconic photo titled “Poolside Gossip”. Also, Humanitarian Sherman Harris who built and operated Sherman’s Deli and Bakery opened in 1954 and still operating in Palm Springs and Palm Desert, CA.
Monday Jan. 9, 2023 Joshua Tree NP
West Side Loop Trail on a cloudy day, but good to breathe cool, moist mountain air. The contorted gneiss and mica rock and the twisted trunks of the Pinyon pine and Juniper trunks were noteworthy on this hike.
Tuesday Jan. 11, 2023 Palm Springs Aerial Tram
This was a breathtaking experience. A 10-minute tram ride in the World’s largest rotating Tram from the Valley Station at 2643′ to the top of Mt. San Jacinto and Lookout Lodge at 8516 feet. And it was snowing starting about 7000′! There’s plenty to do once you get to the top. Nature walks and 50 miles of hiking trails in warm weather and snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in winter months. There’s two cafes and three restaurants, a History Museum and plenty of balconies and terraces to get views of Chino Canyon and Coachella Valley. A Must Do!!
January 14, 2023 Needles, CA
Drove to Lake Havasu City for their annual “Bugs by the Bridge” event. First, the bridge. This is the London Bridge of LHC, yet it was actually constructed in 1830 over the River Thames in London, England. An American entrepreneur by the name of Robert P. McCulloch purchased the bridge for promotion of the burgeoning Lake Havasu City and (re)dedicated the bridge over a channel of the Colorado River (AZ) in 1971. The lamps are made from the melted-down cannons of Napoleon Bonapart’s army.
And now the Bugs…this was Lake Havasu City’s 26th Annual Bugs by the Bridge event, and there were hippies everywhere, with hippies-at-heart, and multiple generations of hippies attending as well. Restored VW buses dating to the mid-50s, 60s and 70s. VW parts, motor mechanics spoken here, barter, swap, organic, dreadlocks, very fun vibe for all ages. Steve’s favorite was the red and white one cab bus. I favored the Mexican sobrero bug.
January 15, 2023 Mojave National Preserve
To best manage and protect the Mohave Desert, the National Park Service and the Bureau of Land Management each have 1.6 M acres of land to protect and manage. Today we went to the Mohave National Preserve and hiked the Hole-in-the-Wall and Ring-Loop trail, the names will become obvious. And then hiked the Barber Peak loop which included the Opalite Cliffs. Opalite is also known as Common opal, and there were incredibly beautiful rocks throughout the area, but all were being protected by the resident bull.
January 16, 2023 Martin Luther King Day, Needles, CA
These pictures were taken along the Old Trail Road, which morphed into Route 66 and is now more or less a side street. Tried looking up information on this “Never Forget” memorial, but there’s nothing referencing the tribute to all branches of the US Military. I took just a few pictures, but there were stone tributes to Army, Navy, Air Force, National Guard, Marine Corps, Coast Guard, Veterans of Foreign Wars, Prisoners of War and Wounded Warriors.
January 18, 2023 Route 66, CA and AZ
By no means inclusive of all things Route 66, these were some of the iconic signs viewed as we drove through the area. The Marble Mountains were the backdrop of an Epidote rock hunting adventure on BLM lands and check out the inscription on the historic plaque at Roy’s Cafe – the Ancient and Honorable Order of E. Clampus Vitus. Steve is wanting to join a chapter once we settle.
January 19, 2023 Drive to Sedona AZ
Steve’s uncle, Don Pierson passed away on December 26, 2022 and we represented the Pierson family at the funeral. Driving along I-40 we encountered snow when approaching Flagstaff, and the snow followed us into Sedona, AZ. Sedona is a world class beautiful location, but we’d never seen it with snow. The red rocks were gorgeous and the grey-green pinyon pine trees, dotted with white snow…. just beautiful.
January 24, 2023 Bakersfield, CA
Past vast orchards of oranges to get to Bakersfield, but the city itself has seen better times. Downtown is modern and clean, but the outskirts get pretty sketchy quickly. Some highlights for us included seeing “the biggest shoe with shoelaces” in the USA. It is 75 years old and still operates as a shoe repair business with owner Filipe Torres “at the toe”. We visited Pyrenees Bakery, and it was heavenly smelling the French loaves in the back seat, and Smith’s Bakery, founded in 1945, with the best cinnamon toast bread ever. We also tried the home-made ice cream at Dewar’s Candy Shop and soda fountain on Eye Street, opened since 1909. Their pistachio caramel chews are beyond addictive.
January 26, 2023 Carrizo Plain National Monument, CA
This National Monument is managed by BLM, CA Fish & Wildlife and Nature’s Conservancy. The Plains are covered with a variety of wildflowers in Spring, has the Templar Mountains to the east, the San Andreas Fault running through its middle, Soda Lake at its end and a series of sandstone uplifts including the monolith called Painted Rock. Painted Rock is part of the Chumash and Yokuts’ Native American history and one of the more significant examples of Native American rock art in the world. The 40′ painted (charcoal black, diatomaceous shale white and hematite red) mural is the thesis topic of Leslie Schupp Wessel’s doctoral thesis (CSU 1982). Fascinating description of mural’s art. Unfortunately, much damage has occurred, so my pictures are limited.
Can you spot Steve in this picture of Painted Rock?
These are naturally occurring combs of honey in a very active beehive at Painted Rock. Fortunately, the hive is on the opposite side of the rock as the pictographs. But this was a first for Steve and I. We’d seen honeycomb plates in beehive boxes, but not bee-constructed combs. Pretty cool!
Feb. 2, 2023 Sequoia and Kings Canyon NPs, CA
In Reedley CA in order to get into Sequoia and Kings Canyon NPs. There was a Winter Storm warning yesterday, so postponed our trip to today. Vehicles are required to have S+M snow tires or chains. Hwy 198 (Generals Highway) closed due to road damage. Took Hwy 180 into Grant Grove Village, Hume Lake and back to General Grant Tree, 2nd largest sequoia in park at 268′ tall, 40 feet wide and 1700 years old. Sequoias are world’s largest tree by volume. The bark is layers thick and multi-colored.
Feb. 3, 2023 San Joaquin Valley, CA
Regardless of what direction you drive in this area, there is large scale agriculture surrounding you. At this time of year, the tangerines were ripe and being harvested, while other crops like pit fruits (apricots, plums) and grapevines were being pruned. It was interesting to see the groups of workers travel caravan-style from farm to farm.
Feb. 4, 2023 Merced River Irrigation Park
This hasn’t happened very often, but we arrived at Merced River Resort RV park in Delhi CA and knew we weren’t staying. Steve found instead the Merced River Irrigation Park, and we ended up being one of two campers in our section. Beautiful reservoir, introduced to the cutest Oak Tit Mouse bird and the Acorn Woodpecker which carries acorns in its beak to holes in trees called granaries. These granaries can stay in woodpecker families for multiple generations. You may have read about a house where they found over 700 pounds of stashed acorns. Also, the area has Blue Oak trees and a rock outcrop locals call Mariposa Granite.
Feb. 6, 2023 Yosemite NP
More snow at the higher elevations, but roads clear for driving and when arrived, it was like an Ansel Adams’ wonderland. Not many visitors on this cold day, but the snow accentuated the giant slabs of granite rock and made the multiple waterfalls stand out. Pictured are Yosemite Valley with El Capitan, Bridal Veil Falls and Half Dome. Also pictured are Ribbon Falls, Lower and Upper Yosemite Falls and Royal Arches. At Yosemite Valley Visitor Center’s Museum, there’s an exhibit on historical ascents of El Capitan including Warren Harding who in 1958 led the first ascent of El Capitan using pitons, bolts and ropes, to climber Tommy Caldwell who in 2015 free climbed Dawn Wall on El Capiton. Standing near the base of this rock slab, you appreciate the risk these climbers took to accomplish these climbs.
Feb. 6, 2023 Yosemite NP continued…
Another feature at Yosemite was the reconstructed (from 1870) Indian Village of Ahwahnee. Lots of buildings from Miwok tribe including the Ceremonial Roundhouse (still used for ceremonies), Acorn Granaries, Bark Houses and Sweathouse covered with incense cedar bark. Plus, a gorgeous display of BIG woven baskets by famed basket weaver Lucy Telles (1933) and other Miwok/Paiute basket weavers.
Feb. 8, 2023 Pinnacles NP
California’s smallest and newest National Park which provides habitat to over 400 species of bees, several species of bats and is one of a dozen rehab locations for the California Condor. The San Andreas Fault divides the park into two parts, an East and West side. There are no connecting roads. There are two half-mile long talus caves which Steve and I initially explored with much trepidation, then with a degree of bravado. Day 1: Balconies Cave Trail and Day 2: Bear Gulch Trail. This is the first National Park we actually camped in!
Above, inside Balconies Cave with and without flashlight. Below, a Shooting Star in bloom and some unidentified rock type with fused purple and amber colors at the cave’s entrance.
Bear Gulch Cave had notched steps and handrails, and ended at a reservoir that hadn’t had this volume of water in years. Saw condors along both trails. There’s also rock climbing in the area.
Feb. 12, 2023 Manzanita Trail at Skyline Wilderness RV Park
Staying at a nice park near Napa CA to experience the Wine County. Went on a great hike to a Manzanita grove. The red-barked Manzanita resembles the Madrona tree, which was also growing in the vicinity. The blue Hound’s Tongue was striking. I marvel at the names botanists give to something so beautiful.
Feb. 13, 2023 Napa CA
We both were expecting Napa to be a bit pretentious. Not so. The city center has some great public art and was currently curating the Napa Lighted Art Festival. The pictured 13′ metal sculpted human head is titled “Seed of Dreams” and both lit and unlit conveys a sense of a deep trance or dream state. We ate dinner at Downtown Joes in the 1893 Oberon Saloon building and had cocktails on the rooftop of the Archer Hotel.
Feb. 14, 2023 Valentine’s Day Sonoma CA
Another keeping-it-real city. A lot of history in this city from being the last location of the 300 year old Mission Trail (1523-1823) of Spanish – Mexican settlements. Mission San Francisco Solano was founded in 1823, marking the northernmost outpost on the historic trail. And Sonoma is the location for the flagship store of Charles Williams, founder of the 1956 WIlliams-Sonoma store. The day ended with a short walk along Skyline Trail, enduring some cold rain to be rewarded with a rainbow.
February 15, 2023 Truchard Winery, Napa CA
A family farm turned vineyard, Tony and Jo Ann Truchard raised their family of six amidst the Roussanne, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon grape vines that bear the Truchard label. Truchard was one of the first vineyards in Carneros district of Napa Valley to use drip irrigation, adapted from Israel. Keeping 20% of their grapes for the Truchard label, they sell the remainder to other vineyards including Mondavi. Tannins are “aged” along with grapes to flavor the wine at the appropriate time. Majority of barrels are French Oak, some US and few CA. Loved walking into the underground wine cellar, plus thoroughly enjoyed “talking wine” with our hostess, Loren.
February 15, 2023 continued…
Went into the city of Napa for sightseeing and shopping. The aroma of good cigars wafted from a small shop called “Napa Cigars”. A great stop. Not only a great selection of cigars, but alcohol was served on premise. Highly recommend a visit, take your time to sample and sit back in the leather chairs and absorb the atmosphere.
February 17, 2023 near Leggett CA
The drive from Napa along Hwy 29 through the AVAs of Napa Valley was beautiful. But the drive from Calistoga to Middleton, with the trailer, was a nail biter. Balls of Steel on my man! But we’re in Coast Redwoods country now, Humboldt County, Eel River and really tall trees. Today we took a local trail to see some of the named groves near Leggett. My favorite was the Petronelle Majer Grove. These trees are true giants!
February 18, 2023 Black Sands beach near Shelter Cove
This was definitely the highlight of our stay near Leggett. A bit of a drive down a narrow, hilly and bumpy road, but once you got out of the vehicle, the black sand/rock beach with gigantic waves awaited us. A few fellow walkers, but often alone for hours. Met a group of three 20-somethings returning after hiking three days along the Lost Coast Trail. They’d seen Elephant Seals and Sea Otters and lucked out with weather. We found the shell of a Pacific Giant Chiton and Sea Stars. Lots of textures along the beach – rocks, wood and coral.
February 20, 2023 Humboldt Redwoods SP
Our reason for being here was to see the Coastal Redwoods, and the 32-mile Avenue of the Giants was a great introduction. We followed the Auto Tour and enjoyed the loop trails that took us back into the forests. It’s hard to look at the trail when your head is looking up, up, up. We took a Pano picture of the Founders Tree – 346.1 ft. tall, diameter of 12.7′ and circumference of 40 feet. The quiet and the tall canopy envelope the visitor.
February 24, 2023 Fortuna, CA
Winter Storm Advisory in effect, especially when travelling over 1500′. It is not unusual to hit those elevations as we explore the Redwoods NP. Today was our last hike into the Huboldt Redwoods SP – the Drury Chaney Trail. There’d been snow, hail and cold temperatures lately, but the trees and underbrush looked so lush, especially when the beloved sun shone through the branches. A banana slug on side of tree??
Met up with Julia and Ryan (GA) at Eel River Brewery. Talked rocks and adventures.
February 25, 2023 Cape Mendicino CA
Another nail biter drive up and down the hills along Mallote Road and CA coast. Today there was about 8-10″ snow piled on the sides of road to make the drive more interesting. But as soon as we pulled over by the former location of the Cape Mendicino Lighthouse (1868-1951) and started walking along the beach, the drive was worth it. (Note the E. Clampus Vitus plaque). Hiked north towards Sugarloaf Island and started to see lots of washed-up sea urchins. Lots!! To top off the day, we had dinner at Victorian Inn in Ferndale. Highly recommend.
February 28, 2023 The Urchin Project Firstly, none of the pictured sea urchins were alive. My guess was the recent stormy weather pushed them to high beach, where they’d been for a while, because they were stinky. So what do you do when it’s cold, slushy and windy outside? Preserve sea urchins. Thanks to Google, we embarked on a 3-day project of cleaning out the meat (including pictured Aristotle’s Lantern) then rinsing and scrubbing, then disinfecting with bleach and rinsing with water. Then air drying and finally painting with Elmer’s glue/water mixture. Fun indoor project when it was such miserable weather outside.
March 1, 2023 Trilliam Falls and Gold Bluff beach in Redwoods National Park, near Klamath CA
Julia and Ryan met us at Trilliam Falls trailhead. We had a nice walk through the Redwoods and the GA couple seemed to enjoy the Pacific NW moss on the trees, and the water flowing down Trilliam Falls. We then headed towards Gold Bluffs beach, and Julia demonstrated her panache for rock hunting – finding round white pebbles and an assortment of colored and shaped stones. This couple has a rock polisher in their trailer. We are seriously impressed!!
March 4, 2023 Brookings OR
We’re in Oregon and camping at Harris Beach SP. This is a beautiful spot – close to the coast, lots of walking trails and full hook-ups. Also there’s Honey Bee Bakery in Brookings with some good treats. Working off the apple fritters, we explored the beach. Lots of sea stacks and BIG waves.
March 5, 2023 Samuel Boardman Scenic Highway Corridor, Hwy 101, north of Brookings OR.
There are several turn outs along this stretch of Hwy 101 to view and hike the Oregon Coast. Also, paralleling the highway, tucked into the woods, is the OR Coast Trail which runs from the Columbia River to the CA border. We first visited Thunder Cove Viewpoint and had the good fortune of some sunshine to take pictures. Then went to Natural Bridge Viewpoint. We were tempted to hike out to the arch, as many people do, but recent deaths persuaded us to stay on the trail. But the best was North Island Viewpoint that took us down to China Beach. Followed trail markers of colored rocks and limpet shells. We had the beach to ourselves and sat and watched the waves come in. Deep red marbled chert/jasper rock spotted the sandy beach.
March 7, 2023 Monterey Cypress in Brookings, OR and then Coos Bay OR Coos Bay
Largest Monterey Cypress in the state of Oregon. My picture cannot do it justice. These wind-blown trees are scattered along OR’s rocky coastline. One has respect that they survive at all given the wind and cold, let alone get this big. Also visited downtown Coos Bay with its maritime history and introduction to all things cranberry at Cranberry Sweets. Visited Dragonfly Farm & Nursery in Langlois, a participant of the Wild River Coast Food Trail and then out to Face Rock. There’s an Indian legend of Ewauna, daughter of Chief Siskiyou who was lured into the waters by the evil spirit Seatka. Instead of being entranced, by looking into his eyes, Ewauna looked up to the moon.
March 9, 2023 Sunset Bay SP, near Coos Bay OR
It seems we’ve been following these Pacific Atmospheric Rivers for about 3 weeks now. The rain and flooding are pretty bad at this campground. Pictured is the flooded tunnel under the road leading to the beach, water over the banks of the stream and finally the river emptying into Sunset Bay.
March 11, 2023 Bowman’s Bog Cranberry Farm, near Bandon OR
There are 5 states in the USA that grow cranberries and Oregon growers produce more than 40 million pounds of berries each year. Because of OR’s rather long growing season, their berries have a deep red color. Eric Bowman has about 40 acres of berries which he’s owned for 20 years and has weathered the market from when berries sold at $0.80 to $0.12 per pound. He’s a bit of a tinkerer and has built a lot of his own equipment. He also sells his own cranberry concentrate, syrup and juice. There was discussion of how Bandon Dunes has been buying out some of the neighboring cranberry bogs for expansion of their golf courses.
March 11, 2023 continued… Cape Arago North and South, point of Sir Francis Drake’s landing and the Seals and Sea Lions hangout.
We spent the rest of the day driving the coastline and hiking to vistas. The most entertaining was the rocks where sea lions and seals hang out. They are so noisy, but even from a distance so fun to watch as they “negotiate” turf. There are California Sea Lions, Steller Sea Lions, Harbor Seals and Northern Elephant Seals. One way of distinguishing one from the other is that Seals belly-flop on land, while Sea Lions walk by pulling their hind flippers under their bodies.
March 12, 2023 Shore Acres SP, OR
Another of the many state parks along the Oregon coast and close to our Sunset Bay Campground was Shores Acres. The site has a botanical garden (not open during our visit), but also these interesting rock formations and stratifications.
March 14, 2023 Yachats OR
This would be our second visit to Yachats. It’s a funky OR coastal town with a colorful past, both good and bad. Turn of the century logging and fishing lend themselves to colorful characters, but the story that caught our attention was the Amanda Trail. A 2 mile hike paralleling Hwy 101, through the Spruce forest, it leads to a wooden statue of the blind Indian woman, Amanda De-Cuys who suffered injustices during the reservation years in 1860s. As was the case with Native Americans throughout the states, she and others of the Coos tribe were taken from their land, and she away from her 8 yo daughter, and marched to the sub-reservation north of Yachats. The shrine is bejeweled with all sorts of tokens – agate, shells, jewelry, and as far as I can tell all these gifts stay near Amanda. It’s a spiriual place, worthy of a visit.
March 13, 2023 Washburne SP, near Florence OR
Skipped around on the dates a bit, but we traveled through rain and sleet to get safely to Washburne SP. This has been my favorite of the coastal state parks thus far, likely because were finally getting some sun. It’s also because its close to Florence and our route into Eugene to visit Steve’s Aunt Jane. The Washburne beach is a gentler beach – a sandier, less rocky coast. Found 4 pieces of agate along the beach. Really pleasant walking.
March 19, 2023 Beverly Beach SP, near Newport OR
A new campground, not as nice as Washburne, but it’s been stormy weather and that has a lot to do with its (lack of) appeal. Some interesting rock formations along Beverly beach, and for the experienced photographer, much opportunity. Even my in-house geologist doesn’t have an answer as to the type or how these rock formations got here, but they are interesting. Also interesting is the color of the sand – purple, green, indigo blue. Another mystery to solve.
Beverly Beach SP, continued…..
Steve and I walked the beach marveling at how precarious Hwy 101 is perched above these cliffs that are sliding into the ocean. We stopped at a river tributary and discovered these scallop imprints in the clay/stone. Always interesting what you find by the sea.
Agate Beach, near Newport OR
Really hoping to find some agate at this beach, but we didn’t spot one piece. Yaquina Head lighthouse on the horizon and seagulls diving into the waves.
March 21, 2023 Depoe Bay OR about Noon
The World’s smallest harbor. We watched fishing boats come into the harbor and whale watching boats leave the harbor. March 24 starts 2023’s Whale Watching Week. State parks, volunteers, Fish and Wildlife are all on the lookout for gray whales migrating from Baja to Alaska. Depoe Bay is the location of the OPRD Whale Watching Center. It sits atop one of the biggest kelp beds and because gray whales eat shrimp living near the beds, spectators get a very close look at these migrating underwater giants. We’re keeping our eyes peeled for these majestic beauties as we travel north.
March 24, 2023 Driving north in more rain and hail towing the trailer is not a pleasurable experience, but Steve got us safely to our next camping spot at Cape Lookout SP near Netarts, OR. On a beach walk and came across this log with Gooseneck Barnacles. Very photogenic. If anyone knows what that yellowed, fibrous object is at my booted feet, please let me know.
March 26, 2023 Meares State Park
The ranger at Cape Lookout suggested visiting the largest Sitka Spruce tree in Oregon (see me standing at the base) and talking to “her”. She likes conversation. And so we did, or at least I did. She shared a message that was inspiring. Also saw more of the leather fern nests that seem to especially like the mossy trunks of the Sitka Spruce. There was also the Octopus Tree, which has no central trunk, and where Native Americans allegedly gathered for conferences. The Oregon coast is rugged and beautiful, with scattered sandy beaches. Explore and be rewarded. Three Arch Rock Park below.
March 27, 2023 Cape Lookout Viewpoint Trail and Cape Lookout beach
We are still looking for the northernly migrating Grey Whales, and not having much luck. Cape Lookout Viewpoint (2.3-mile trail) was one of 17 sites where volunteers were to be stationed to answer questions about the whales. Unfortunately, we were only able to get a little over one mile up the trail due to muddy conditions, then spent the rest of the day exploring the south end of Cape Lookout beach.
Two notable eateries in the Netarts and Pacific City area are Nevors Shellfish Farm and Grateful Bread Bakery and Cafe. Nevors had a sign posted staing that the farm was closed while the owner “returned to being an oyster farmer for a while”. Completely understand that remark, and our time at Grateful Bread was especially nice because we shared meal with Barry and Salwa, fellow travelers from British Columbia who were a joy to share stories with over good coffee and good food. Get there early. That place was hummin’ after 10 AM!!
Early April 2023 Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach OR and sunset from Cape Lookout beach OR
March 31, 2023 Ecola State Park, north of Cannon Beach
Another of the 17 Whale Watch sites, but no whales. Estimated 40 mph winds though. It reminded me of the winds on Mt. Rainier, unobstructed, powerful and watch your step. The picture does not do justice to the intenseness of that wind. Also, The Goonies movie is a big thing around Cannon Beach – sweatshirts, t-shirts, various movie shoot locations, as noted in the sign.
April 1, 2023 Neahkahnie Viewpoint along Hwy 101 south of Cannon Beach
We are still looking for Grey Whales and have yet to spot evidence of them. We sort of kid with fellow whale watchers – where would you rather be in this weather? Baja or the Oregon coast. Another burst of hail answered that question.
Native American tale of buried treasure on top of Mt. Neahkanie, protected by a ghost. The Park Service banned treasure hunters recently.
April 2, 2023 Cannon beach (note Haystack Rock) during a 10 minute rain reprieve, with tied-dye T-shirted Spencer, a master cairn creator basking alongside his rock creation. Herds of Roosevelt Elk are abundant up and down the Oregon coast. This herd of one buck and eight females and juveniles, were very comfortable grazing in the campground. Steve and I were fortunate to avoid the rain and got a quick 2 mile walk around Coffenbury Lake (Warrenton OR) before the weather changed to wet again. When will warm Spring be here?
April 4, 2023 Warrenton, OR
Visited Kathleen and David Z. at their beautiful home in Warrenton and then walked out to Fort Stevens SP. Watched the amazing Zoe poodle dog identify, pick up and retrieve plastic bottles along the beach. Drove into Astoria for burgers and beer. A big plus of this trip is our ability to visit friends across the country and share good times. While in Cannon Beach area visited the iconic Mo’s restaurant and ordered fish n chips of course.
April 8, 2023 Leaving OR and arriving in Ilwaco WA, wishing we could leave the rain and wet behind us, but no such luck. Discovering condensation in new places and a new leak along slide. Steve found some loose screws which he tightened, and we keep fingers crossed. Ilwaco had its Razor Clam Festival this weekend featuring how to dig for clams, free oyster shooters, live music by the Rock Fish Blues band, great beer and great deal on whole crab dinner.
Also met the man behind Sam the Clam. He wasn’t in costume because of 50 mph wind gusts which would of blown him over. Nice guy. His wife was organizer of Festival.
Easter Sunday April 9, 2023 North Head Lighthouse, Waikiki Beach and calming sunset.
The winds continued to blow throughout the day, so Razor Clam festivities (like the clam fritter bake off at the largest frying pan) were cancelled. Steve and I drove out to North Head Lighthouse and experienced those 50 mph gusts as we clung to the metal fence posts looking out to the Pacific Ocean. Also recommended for high winds and King Tides is the local Waikiki Beach for wave watching. After a dynamic weather day, God provided one of the most beautiful Easter sunsets.
April 10, 2023 Long Beach WA
Had to see for ourselves the famouse Marsh’s Free Museum with all things novel and mysterious including the Fortune Teller, a genuine shrunken head and Jake the Alligator Man.
April 11, 2023 Beard’s Hollow beach
Since entering Ilwaco, Steve and I have begun our search for a new home. Long Beach peninsula has a lot to offer in terms of access to several state parks, the 8.5 mile Discovery Trail along the coast, Fish & Wildlife Refuges. Today we explored Beard’s Hollow. What is a hollow, you may ask? A hollow is “a small sheltered valley usually but not always having a watercourse”. This particular hollow was named after Captain EN Beard whose body was found in the hollow after his ship the Vandalla sunk in 1853.
April 13, 2023 Discovery Trail, Long Beach
Met Kathleen and David Z for a walk along Discovery Trail’s boardwalk and beach. Not only are there interpretive signage regarding Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery, but also sculptures and art features along this 8.2 mile trail. Walking and Talking – great exercise!
April 14, 2023 Martha Jordan birding trail near Long Beach WA
Another hiking option was this 4.0-mile hike in the words near Leadbetter SP on the northern tip of the Long Beach peninsula. Steve identified several bird calls and there was no one else on the trail. After our hike, we visited the Oysterville cemetery with Chief Nahcati’s grave (1826-1864) and a number of other graves dating back to mid-1800s. Then sustenance at Oysterville Sea Farms with fresh oysters on the halfshell and a cup of clam chowder, a gorgeous view of the mud flats and realizing WE ARE HOME!!!
Also Peanut the pig at Josie and Sadie’s Bakery in Ocean Park, WA.
April 15, 2023 Copalis Beach WA
Leaving Long beach peninsula and arriving at our “home base” of Copalis WA, we’ve intentionally driven Hwy 101 to see what coastal towns interest us for a potential new home location. The rain and hail continue as well, but we persevere. Met with North Beach Realty 4/18. Again, not a lot of homes that meet our criteria. Took a walk along Copalis River this morning and found this tree swing and PNW flora. Thinking about getting a small boat to explore the river way.
March thru May 2023 Razor Clam season from Long Beach to Kalaloch beaches in Washington state. This year WA Dep’t of Fish and Wildlife allowed 20 clams per day per license (up from 15). At our RV park, lots of folks camping to take advantage of the good harvests this year. Much discussion about how to prepare clams and chowder recipes.
April 26, 2023 Griffith-Priday State Park
I’d spent many years coming to Ocean Shores as a kid and adult. But this was the first-time exploring Griffith-Priday SP, just down the road from Green Lantern Tavern. A 3 mile walk along the grassland peninsula with Copalis River to the east, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Conner Creek winds its way to the ocean. While out walking the ocean, picked up sand dollars and a sizeable piece of amber-colored agate. Met Todd who had para-glided earlier up Copalis River while we were having coffee, but we then met as he landed on the beach. He explained that the beach near Iron Springs Resort is a FAA approved airport. Great day at the beach!!
May 1, 2023 Leaving Copalis for Marrowstone
We’ve got a 3-week stay on Marrowstone Island which will get us closer to the Olympic peninsula and what we think is the sweet spot for a new home location. But first, picked up some fresh oysters and halibut from Lytle’s Seafood to put on the BBQ tonight with friends.
A suggestion to check out Troll Haven compound near Sequim WA. Thought of our Nova Scotia neighbors from summer of ’22. Unfortunately, the Hall and grounds were closed on Thursday May 4th, and we’ll just need to use our imagination.
May 7, 2023 Timberton Trail, Port Ludlow WA
We’ve been driving to Port Angeles, Sequim, Port Townsend, Port Ludlow, Toandos peninsula, Kala Point, Cape George, Adelma Beach, Gardiner as well as south Puget Sound and Whidbey Island. It’s early in the real estate market, but “inventory is low” in most areas, primarily due to higher interest rates. But we’re seeing some beautiful spots, including a great hiking trail, Timberton, near Port Ludlow. Really enjoyed the diversity of ecosystems and the flora and fungi, like the Morrell mushrooms. Back in the PNW!
June 6, 2023 Copalis Crossing, Grays Harbor WA
Steve and I have been very busy looking for a new home but balancing the stress with walks in the woods and along the beach. Sigh….a heart-shaped cut out in a tree, a sand castle and a unique sand dollar.
On a separate walk along Copalis River in Griffith-Priday State Park, we came across this quilted heart tied to a small pine tree. Apparently, there is an international “I found a Quilted Heart” group that leaves these cute handmade hearts all over the globe. If interested their website and hashtag (?) is: www.ifaqh.com and #IFAQH.
June & July 2023, Ocean Shores WA area
Steve and I are spending a lot of time looking for a new home, but as stated earlier, balancing out that stressful effort with walks and seeing the sights. Came across this doe with her very new fawn on the residential streets of Ocean Shores. Residents see deer, coyotes, black bear and cougar. Also took a guided kayak trip up the Copalis River to see the Ghost Forest, a remnant of a forest that was wiped out from a 1700 AD tsunami that started in Japan, rolled across the Pacific and dropped the shoreline of Grays Harbor coast about 6 feet. The majority of surviving trees are Red Cedar like the one that’s balanced atop an early 1900s railroad trestle.
Weekend of June 21-23, 2023 Sand & Sawdust Festival, Ocean Shores
Located primarily on the Convention Center grounds, the Sand & Sawdust festival had some local talent to display. There’s a large-scale sand carving contest both off-beach as well as on-beach, a smaller-scaled and timed sand carving contest with $100.00 prizes and a lot of wood being made into art by talented carvers. The aroma of cedar is everywhere. One carver comes up from California and is a third-generation carver.
Another walk to our go-to Griffith-Priday SP along the Copalis River…met a young deer on the trail, saw what appeared to be old iron coils from a lumber-hauling ship(?) and watched an orange antennae Beach Hopper (male) and his lesser colored female cohort scooping their way through the sand as Steve and I sat on a log.
July 16, 2023 41st Anniversary of Hop to the Top (HTTT) , White River CG, Mt. Rainier National Park
A celebration of the July 15-18, 1982 summit climb of Mt. Rainier by six dedicated climbers who facilitated Don Bennett being the first amputee, without prosthesis and with crutches, to make the summit of Mt. Rainier on Sunday July 18, 1982. They spent Saturday night in the crater and on Sunday morning, a glorious sunny day, they climbed the final hundreds of feet to the summit. A helicopter hovered over the summit at the same time that the group of six walked to the top. The group consisted of John Skirving, Al Shelley, Don Bennett, Rob Hartz, Cy Perkins, and Rick Hanika. Forty-one years later, a group of friends and family set up a picnic celebration at the White River Campground, at the base of Glacier Basin trailhead where it all started decades ago. Attendees included Al and Peggy Shelley, Steve and Kathy Pierson, Carol and son Garet Keller, and Chrissey and Ken Uphoff. We swapped mountaineering stories, ate chicken, chocolate cake and drank beer; decorated rocks and walked with them down to the White River. The Mountain was gorgeous and we spent time just appreciating the view and being here and now. (A smaller group facilitated spreading ashes of Phillip Bartow of the 1981Pelion Project Mt. Rainier climb, at the base of a cedar tree overlooking the Mountain and White River). A beautiful day, a great experience meeting wonderful people who are each making this world a better place.
July 30th to August 11, 2023 Steve and I have been busy home shopping, but have also taken in some of the local sites and seasonal events of the area, like Ocean Shore’s Hog Wild annual motorcycle event the last full weekend of July and visiting the International Mermaid Museum at Westport Winery which not only has the museum, but also a very good restaurant and these wonderful flights of vodkas and gins. Like so many places we discovered throughout the USA, you just have to explore a bit to find some things unique and interesting.
Even if you’re not a mermaid fan, there is a tasting room and an indoor\outdoor eatery that featured really good food. So, about a 40-minute drive, but worth the time to enjoy a nice venue and a unique museum theme.
August 11, 2023 Our new HOME!
An unique story of how we finally became owners of this beautiful home and property in Hoquiam, WA. Located near the mud flats of North Bay, part of Grays Harbor, we have found a little piece of paradise. We have no furniture, so sit out on the back patio every morning and evening and have coffee or drinks overlooking the tidal flats with the saltwater coming in or going out. We’re learning our local birds like the Cedar Waxwing and have spotting a coyote eating the blackberries that line one side of our property. We’re opening boxes and rediscovery belongings we’ve not seen in three years!! It’s another new adventure; from our first year of marriage and ascent of Mt. Baker to travels to Mexico, Morrocco, Ireland, Germany, Switzerland and Turkey, plus three years touring the USA and the Maritime provinces. Come visit us. There’s tons of space, Lytle’s Seafood and Oysters just down the street and we’ve got all the time in the world.
THE END and THE BEGINNING.